The Jamie Oliver-inspired take on Fifteen Cornwall, arguably Cornwall’s best restaurant, is a bit unusual. He crosses the car park in front of The Hotel and Extreme Academy in Watergate Bay on the north Cornish coast between Padstow and Newquay, heading towards a low wooden wall. The only indication that you’re in the right place are the tall flags emblazoned with ‘quince’. You walk down the steps at the corner of the parking lot and enter the restaurant.
We had reserved for dinner at 6:45 pm on a Friday night. We arrived at the restaurant on time and were made to feel welcome and were then shown to our table by the maitre d’ without delay. Our table was by the window overlooking the long sandy beach of the wonderful Watergate Bay. It must be one of the best restaurant views in Cornwall, if not the world. We also had a good view of the restaurant’s open kitchen, which during our visit seemed to be under control.
Before long, our waitress arrived at the table with our menus and wine list. In the evenings, Fifteen Cornwall serves up its five-course tasting menu.
There is an optional ‘wine tasting package’ which Fifteen Cornwall has “designed to make your dining experience that little bit more special with a measure of wine tasting to match each course”. The wine tasting package includes five glasses of wine. We had already enjoyed a glass of champagne before arriving in Fifteen Cornwall and decided that another five glasses of wine might be too much, so we opted for a bottle of New Zealand’s Marlborough Opawa Sauvignon Blanc, 2007.
There was an item on the menu that I wasn’t familiar with so I asked our waitress about it. She was clearly knowledgeable about the menu and she was able to explain to me that Burrata is a fresh Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream.
We ordered our meals and wine and a carafe of tap water. Both wine and water were promptly served along with a selection of “Ken’s bread and the largest green olives in Puglia”.
For starters, we both ate (there is no remedy) grilled violet artichoke with ricotta salata and roasted arancini with garlic and sage. Presentation and taste were perfect.
For the next course (Insalate), I ordered Insalata of sticky burrata, juicy roasted pear, funky Buttervilla leaves, walnuts, and aged balsamic. My wife had Bresaola della Valtellina with beautifully dressed sweet beets, wild Newlina arugula and Parmigiano Reggiano. Again, the presentation and the taste were perfect.
Next (Primi) came the lighter Potato Gnocchi with Bocoddan Farm Pink Beef Ragu and Horseradish Gremolata for me and Italian Iron Bark Squash Tortellini with mostarda di fiche, ameretti and crisp sage for my wife. Perfect again.
For the main (Secondi) I had hand-dipped Cornish seared scallops, lenticchie di Castellucio, Tuscan kale with anchovy aioli and spicy salami and my wife had Higher Laity Farm roast lamb loin stuffed with semolina pudding, borlotti beans creamy, cavolo, chili and mint dressing. One of my scallops was slightly overcooked but I have to say the combination of scallops and spicy Fifteen Cornwall salami is sensational.
For the final course (Dolci e Formaggi) we both chose cheese: St. Endellion, Menallack Farmhouse, Ragstone, Blu Di Capra with truffled honey and Ken’s fantastic fruit and nut bread, along with a glass of the recommended Francesco Candido Aleatico, Salice Salentino 2002, from Puglia, Italy. The Blu Di Capra was particularly good and the recommended wine matched the course very well.
To finish we had coffee and “sweet things”.
Throughout the meal the waitresses at Fifteen Cornwall were very attentive without being intrusive. Although we didn’t have the Fifteen Cornwall ‘wine tasting package’, two tables adjacent to us did; the sommeliers explained the wines chosen to accompany each dish and answered questions. They were clearly knowledgeable on their subject.
Is there something you would change? Yes. I would prohibit the use of mobile phones in the restaurant area; the “gentleman” at one of the tables near us spent most of the night on his Blackberry, not talking, but pressing buttons. And he would order some smarter, cleaner uniforms for the waiters and waitresses.
Fifteen Cornwall’s ‘Evening Tasting Menu’ is £48.95 per person. Our wine is £36 more (Fifteen Cornwall wine is a bit expensive). With the service, the total bill came to £147 for the two of us. It was well worth it!
Copyright (c) 2010 Clive Goodhead