Mardi Gras is generally considered the largest free party in the US and beyond; and the legend of the Carnival season travels far beyond his spiritual home in New Orleans. Most of us know the concept of Mardi Gras and what it entails, or at least we have a vision of what is supposed to happen. However, for many outsiders who visit and enjoy Mardi Gras, it can be a daunting experience. It really takes a bit of insider knowledge of the carnival season to enjoy it to the fullest. This article will expose some tips on how to enjoy this great occasion.
The first thing to realize about Mardi Gras is that it is a cultural event that the locals really embrace. Many cultural events across the country often exaggerate the level of participation and enthusiasm of local residents. This is not the case with Mardi Gras, as you may find out by trying to watch the parades on St. Charles Avenue.
The ‘Avenue is where most residents tend to congregate; And they do it in great numbers. So much so, that most visitors will notice two things: the personal viewing ladders are positioned so close to the sidewalks that it’s very difficult to see the parades through the crowds; and local residents become very defensive of the territory they have marked out on the neutral ground (the strip of land where the streetcars run). The best way to avoid this is to watch the parades on the south (riverfront) of St Charles Avenue. The crowd can be a bit thinner, the stairs more sparse, and you’ll get a better view of the parade floats.
You’ll get a better sense of the raucous atmosphere of parade nights near the start of the parade route: between Napoleon and Louisiana avenues. It will be busy though, and in the big Sunday night parades it can be almost claustrophobic. For a quieter carnival experience, you may want to continue down St Charles Avenue towards Lee Circle, where the crowds are thinner but the atmosphere is a bit less intense. However, someone is less likely to take your party beads here!
One issue you will inevitably run into is a lack of restrooms along the parade route. This can be a big problem, as utilities are often out of sight. Some providers will set up pay-as-you-go port-a-pods (literally!), but they may end up down towards the end of the season. If this really is a problem for you, there are two options: kick back with beers, or settle down near one of the bars, like Fat Harry’s on General Pershing, Superior Grill, or one of the bars near Jackson Avenue. Be careful though, it does get crowded and the lines are long!
The St. Charle’s Avenue experience is definitely more family friendly (relatively speaking). However, for those who want a more grown-up Mardi Gras experience, head downtown for the extravagance (eg Canal Street or St. Charles Avenue). As with Uptown, you will face similar issues as the beginning of the parade route. Lack of bathrooms and serious crowds. In fact, crowds are more of a problem on Canal Street, as there is a risk of getting “cornered” behind police cordons. Plan your route or you will find that your access to other parts of the city center is severely limited; waiting in a gap in procedures that don’t happen very often.
The party really comes alive in the French Quarter. However, many may not be aware that none of the parades have a route through here. The French Quarter itself will give you all the carnival experiences you’ve ever heard of: topless revelers, body painting, scantily clad partygoers, costumes, and all sorts of questionable behavior. It is definitely not for children; but if you like this, then there is no reason not to wait until the afternoon. By now, the best of parades will be over. With Mardi Gras winding down for the rest of the city, the French Quarter is only starting to heat up. Please note, however, that all bars and clubs will strictly close at 12am; which is usually imposed by the police.
As for Mardi Gras nightlife, Tuesday is probably the best if you want to see the typical Mardi Gras sights. However, if you just want to have a few drinks and enjoy the atmosphere, Thursday and Friday nights are probably the best. They offer the best balance between savoring the carnival atmosphere and avoiding the worst of the crowds. Saturday night is definitely a night to avoid Bourbon Street. The final stages of the Endymion parade will see a flood of people on Bourbon Street, and it’s no exaggeration to say that you’ll find it difficult to even cross the street with the solid mass of humanity that will be squeezing around the bars.
If Saturday night is your thing, you’d better head to Frenchmen Street, where the nightlife is a bit more polished and less vulgar than Bourbon Street. This is where most of the locals will hang out, enjoying some excellent New Orleans ragtime jazz and blues acts, certainly none of the Dooby Brother tribute acts you’ll find on Bourbon Street.
The best parades to watch aren’t actually on Tuesday. Although Zulu is a fantastic display, Rex is probably a little less extravagant than the Saturday and Sunday parades. Watching the parade is probably a quieter family affair, especially if you’re watching from west of Jackson Avenue. Also, at 2pm, the parades fade into a somewhat anticlimactic assortment of trucks and bead throwers.
The truly great parades are Endymion and Bacchus. Endymion performs on a Saturday night from MidCity to the Superdome, missing Uptown entirely. However, he is known as a Krewe of great ambition, with full use of fiber optics and floats for multiple vehicles. It’s an intense, high-octane affair that will take your breath away. Furthermore, Endymion will also attract some high-profile celebrities like the Grand Marshal. Uptown Bacchus Papers on a Sunday night by the traditional route. The crowds will be strong for this parade; which also boasts multi-vehicle floats, fiber optics, and celebrity entrants.
Other must-see parades are Tucks, Muses; Thoth, and of the State. Thoth performs on Saturday lunchtime and is a fun and eclectic mix of dancers and costumes, with less emphasis on the big floats. Muses is a Krewe that celebrates women, with signature horsemen like the Pussy-footers, satirical floats and Muses Shoe. Showing up on a Thursday night and with the skytracker at the front of the parade, it really marks Mardi Gras in full swing.
The best thing to remember about Mardi Gras is that everything you’ve heard is true; from sparkling for beads to open parties that go deep into the night. However, it can be overwhelming for the uninitiated. It really is the biggest free party in the US, but it’s best to be prepared before you go there.